Seppelt St Peters Shiraz 2004

91+ points

Grampians, Victoria, Australia. 13.5%

I get the sense that Fosters Wine Estates (owners of Penfolds, Seppelts, Lindemans and many other brands) are trying to make the Seppelt brand a Victorian mirror of the SA Penfolds, which seems very sensible – a range of similar quality wines but with a different regional (terrior) stamp.

If so then this wine, St Peters, is prime candidate for the Grange position in the portfolio, and certainly many critics consider it a worthy contender. Except that it has the advantages of being one tenth the price (and screwcap).

This is a wine that smells like pretty classic Australian shiraz of the highest order, while the palate is has plenty of acid (as it should) , is lithe, fresh, with hints of complexity. Yes more Rhone-line than a SA/Penfolds wine but it’s not a Rhone copycat.

One for the cellar, and for worthy scrutiny – this could be the next establishment shiraz from Australia – we’ll know in another 10-20 vintages.

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