Wine Reviews & Comments

January 31, 2009

Freycinet Chardonnay 2004

Filed under: Australia, White wines — ByronSharp @ 10:33 am

92 points

Slightly lush but complex with a gorgeous seam of acid. I wish I’d bought more, it’s all gone now.

January 25, 2009

Terrazas de los Andes ‘Afincado’ 2005

Filed under: Wine — ByronSharp @ 12:11 pm

86+ points

Mendoza, Argentina. 14%

A single vineyard (at 1067 metres) Malbec. Inky dark, muted nose. Dense Malbec, not too extracted or over-ripe, some life in the grapes, but hard to drink. Closer in style to California than France. Leave until 2013.

January 21, 2009

Voyager Estate Cabernet Merlot 2004, John Forest Collection Cabernet 2004, Chateau Smith-Haut-Lafite 2004

Filed under: Australia, Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon, France, New Zealand — ByronSharp @ 4:12 pm

Three bordeaux blends of similar age from different countries – and 3 of the best cabernet regions in the world.  The short summary is that these wines are peers, they were different but worthy competitors.

Chateau Smith Haut Lafite 2004 was the more enjoyed wine (by the small group of (blind) tasters), though the margin wasn’t huge.  Less forceful and more complex, showing a little more development (the only bottle with cork not screwcap), with a noticeable, in this company, herbaceous tinge.

John Forest Collection Cabernet, from Gimblett Gravels in Hawkes Bay in New Zealand was firm, dense, some noticeable tannin and smokey charred oak aromas.  A tad hard, but nicely savoury.

Voyager Estate Cabernet Merlot is distinctly sweeter.  Ruby red fruits, pastille type flavours, a tad simple.  Good, but perhaps the most different and a little out-classed.  Surprising given the wide acclaim accorded this wine this year by Australian wine writers.

It as also interesting that the wines were preferred in reverse order to their alcohol levels (Voyager having the highest at 14.2%).

PS Our NZ guests, not really red wine drinkers were a bit embarassed that they ranked the Voyager ahead of the Kiwi cabernet, but they were content that it performed well in this classy line-up.

Nov 2009 Update – The John Forest Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 has softened considerably.  It’s nice wine with a smokey oak finish (reminds me of some South African syrah) but with only moderate concentration.  Drink now.

Chateau Leoville Barton 1985

Filed under: Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon, France, Wine — ByronSharp @ 3:49 pm

93 points

Saint Julien, Bordeaux, France. 12.5%

Solid, aged but without the slightest sign of fading oxidation. Classy though without the ethereal charm of say Lafite. Delicious. Serious without being intrusive.

Shelmerdine Chardonnay 2006

Filed under: Australia, White wines — ByronSharp @ 3:45 pm

87 points

Yarra Valley, Victoria, Australia. 13.5%

Quality Chardonnay. A little more buttery than expected. Drink now.

January 12, 2009

Bindi Original Vineyard Pinot Noir 2005

Filed under: Australia, Pinot Noir, Wine — ByronSharp @ 4:56 pm

90 points

Macedon Ranges, Victoria, Australia. 13.5%

Nice fullish red colour, varietal deep aroma slightly spirity. Rich very concentrated, creamy soft palate with touch of herbs and alcohol on the finish. A tiny bit souped up. Much is made of winemaker Michael Dhillon’s burgundy connections and knowledge but this is more like the best of Californian Pinot. A surprise then, but certainly enjoyable. Drink now.

January 8, 2009

Wynns Coonawarra Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2006

Filed under: Australia, Cabernet Sauvignon, Wine — ByronSharp @ 9:36 am

90+ points

Coonawarra, South Australia. 14%

Andrew Caillard ( in Gourmet Wine Traveller Dec 08) described this as “brilliantly focused Paulliac look-alike”. Which grabbed my interest and deep suspicion. But it is remarkably free of minty eucalypt aromas and flavours. Quite noticeable tannins, though more approachable than I’d expect a 2006 Bordeaux to be. Does this mark a new style for Coonswarra? Good value. I plan to buy a case.

Te Mata Estate Coleraine 2005

Filed under: Cabernet Sauvignon, New Zealand, Wine — ByronSharp @ 9:26 am

90+ points

Hawkes Bay, NZ. 13.5%

A deeper wine than Coleraines of the past (except 1998). Closed but very well balanced. I suspect this may be very fine. Drink from 2012 perhaps.

Wild Rock Gravel Pit Red 2004

Filed under: New Zealand — ByronSharp @ 9:22 am

83 points

Gimblett Gravels, Hawkes Bay, NZ. 14%

A merlot malbec blend.

Not bad but disappointing because I would have picked this as coming from a warmish Australian region not hawkes bay. Simple.

Chateau D’Issan 2002

Filed under: Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon, France, Wine — ByronSharp @ 9:17 am

89 points

Margaux, Bordeau, France. 13%

This is good wine, there is complexity, each glass gets a bit better. BUT I didn’t expect this degree of dilution from the vintage or the Chateau, also greeness that goes beyond the usual freshness of Margaux.

Voyager Estate Chardonnay 2006

Filed under: Australia, White wines — ByronSharp @ 9:12 am

90 points

Margaret River, Western Australia. 13.3%

Lovely modern Chardonnay with nicely balanced alcohol. Slightly more overt than I’d like but a charmer nevertheless. It’s wines like this consumed by tourists in Freemantle or Sydney cafes on Summer evenings that make people migrate to Australia!

January 1, 2009

Penfolds Bin 311 Tumbarumba Chardonnay 2006

Filed under: Australia, White wines — ByronSharp @ 8:14 am

88 points

Tumbarumba, NSW, Australia. 13.5%

This is rather good, and shows just how good Australia chardonnay has become. The 2nd commercial vintage from an alpine area in New South Wales I think. Nicely restrained alcohol, oak, fruit. The right balance between richness and austerity. Drink now to 2011.

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