Knappstein Enterprise Cabernet Sauvignon 1997

87 points

Clare Valley, South Austraia. 13.5%

I found this 10 year old bottle in my local wine store and was rather pleased with myself.

Dark solid colour. This is, I think, a dry grown old vines wine. The back label says that 14% Malbec was included this year, which perhaps explains the good colour. It’s a big firm wine, with a seam of tartaric acid that runs from beginning to end. Nice structure, but old fashioned flavours. Very much Australian, but not sweet or porty. I quite enjoyed it but my wife thought it weird and certainly not wonderful – she particularly spotted the American oak (the back label says new and old French oak with 5% American), she often likes American oak, much more than I do, but thought that this was a bad decision.

So there you have it, dry, solid wine, none of the flair one might expect with Cabernet but interesting. Enough for me to try the 1999 which is still in the same store.

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