Hawkes Bay, New Zealand. 13.5%
This is winemaker experimentation gone too far. At first I thought it was Mercaptan, but the next day it seemed to be over-the-top Brettanoymyces.
There is sweetish fore-palate and then very savoury spoilt finish. I was impressed by the weight and concentration, but wasn’t going to drink it for dinner – instead I returned it to the shop.
I don’t ask for squeaky clean wines, but this was too much. We then opened a bottle of 2004 Te Mata Bullnose Syrah (the big brother of Woodthorpe) and it was pristine. Perhaps 2002 was an experiment, not to be repeated.