Te Mata Estate Woodthorpe Syrah Viogner 2002

60 points

Hawkes Bay, New Zealand. 13.5%

This is winemaker experimentation gone too far.  At first I thought it was Mercaptan, but the next day it seemed to be over-the-top Brettanoymyces.

There is sweetish fore-palate and then very savoury spoilt finish.  I was impressed by the weight and concentration, but wasn’t going to drink it for dinner – instead I returned it to the shop.
I don’t ask for squeaky clean wines, but this was too much.  We then opened a bottle of 2004 Te Mata Bullnose Syrah (the big brother of Woodthorpe) and it was pristine.  Perhaps 2002 was an experiment, not to be repeated.

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