Saint-Hilaire Du Coin Muscadet Réserve 1996

90 points

Muscadet Serve et Maine, Loire, France. 12%

I’m a growing fan of Muscadet, which at its best is fabulously dry, austere yet flavoursome, with considerable minerality.  This wine tastes like oyster shells.  It doesn’t seem like it is 12 years old, and at a price of only 7 Euro that seems impossible.  Muscadet isn’t fashionable, nothing like the Sauvignon Blanc wines of the Loire.  it doesn’t even have the marketplace presence of Pinot Grigio which it certainly competes with in terms of light dry style.

I believe that much Muscadet is plain.  I recently came across some very good versions from the fabulous 2005 vintage and put the quality down to this vintage alone.  But this wine, albeit benefitting from a long age, shows that it isn’t just 2005.  My only criticism is that it’s difficult to see what the age has done for this wine.  It seems to be to be similar to the 2005s.

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