Jean-Michel Gerin Cote-Rôtie ‘champin le seigneur’ 2004

90+ points

Côte-Rôtie, Northern Rhône, France. 13%

Deceptive wine. At first it is fresh very young simple Shiraz (with a touch of Viognier ?), quite floral, but that finish, it has a lovely touch of fruity sweetness, and it goes on and on.

On the nose there are some complex smoked meat aromas.

In Australia I’m usually unimpressed with Shiraz/Viognier blends, but this is obviously what they are trying for – and shiraz-wise some cool climate producers are doing a good job, but are perhaps a bit too hamfisted when it comes to adding the Viognier. Or maybe in the Rhone it just works. Or maybe this wine doesn’t really have much Viognier, it just seems that way.

Anyway, it’s an interesting wine and quite lovely. Enjoyable now, but I’d rather drink it in 2011.

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