Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz 1999

90 points

Eden Valley, South Australia. 14.4%

I’d hoped for more, hence the modest points for a wine of this age and pedigree.

On a positive note, I like the restraint (for what is essentially a strapping Barossa shiraz) and elegance, the acid balance is appropriate and it doesn’t taste dosed up with added acidity (though I suspect there is some).  However the vegetal aromas, and green tannins go too far.  I don’t mind some greenness, though I prefer a distinct spectrum (fresh herbaceous, not as fresh as minty, nor in the other direction asparagus or rotting vegetation).  Also, on a wine like this some green adds character, and can be accomodated, but here there is too much.  Actually I’m surprised there is much at all; wines on the valley floor from this vintage are dense, concentrated, and while in no way super ripe they are physiologically ripe.  And at 14.4% alcohol you’d hope for physiological ripeness.

Click here for reviews of other Henschke wines.

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