Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux 2004

92 points

Margaux, Bordeaux, France. 13%

This wine more than any other forced me to reassess my predjudice against 2nd wines of the top classes growths. This is a beautiful lovely wine, really special. It showed very well in a Margaux tasting in Bordeaux last year. Now at home in Australia it’s a joy to drink, perhaps a little more approachable in style than I recall though undoubtably it has a long life ahead of it. Deftly balanced fruit tannin alcohol and acid mark this wine out. The oak is good though understandably at this age it’s a little too pronounced.

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Isole e Olena Cepparello 2004

91+ points

Tuscany, Italy. 14%

Intense 100% Sangiovese with real depth. At the moment it’s a bit like biting into a bunch of grapes, dense primary flavours with substantial tannin. Yet it’s enjoyable with food. Cellar for 10 years easily.

Tardieu-Laurent Rasteau 2000

91 points

Southern Rhone, France. 14%

I’m not a great fan of the South of France and Grenache based wines but this is good fun. Spicy without being sickly. T-L wines sometimes seem a little manufactured to me but the recipe is right, shades of Chateauneuf du Pape.

Gaja Dagromis Barolo 2003

90 points

This was a lot of fun in spite of heavy oaking the Barolo flavour was there. Very forward. Like perfect cafe wine – though a very expensive cafe in this case.

Fontanafredda Barolo 2004

92 points. 14%

Wow this is a step above the Barolos I’ve tried before. Great depth of Nebbiolo flavour, fresh with great licorice finish.

Prunotto Barbaresco 2004

89 points

14%

Very fresh. Tuscan like structure. This should be great fresh savoury table wine in 2-5 years.

Vinea Marson Nebbiolo 2006

84 points

Heathcote, Victoria, Australia. 13.5%

Very fresh sort of Pinot like. Moderate alcohol and nice savoury edge but hard young wine. Not complex.

Nice label.

Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou 2002

90 points

Saint-Julien, Bordeaux, France. 13%

Quite classic but not showing its best I think. This (7 years old) seems to be a difficult time for the better 2002s. The fruit is now a bit subdued and lean which points up the greeness of the vintage. In a few years this will be a far less detracting characteristic.

Dominque Laurent Beaune 1er Cru vieilles vignes 2004

90 points

Burgundy, France. 13%

An odd wine. Very enjoyable. Like a cross between Burgundy and Southern Rhone. Spicy rich gluggable.

Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier 2002

89 points

Canberra, Australia. 14%

One of Australia’s now most famous wines, certainly the benchmark fir shiraz viognier. I was underwhelmed. I paid a high price to at last taste a bottle, from a good vintage, and with some age.

Fresh, nicely balanced fruit acid, alcohol and oak. But too much obvious Viognier for me. Trying too hard to be Northern Rhone, or at least an Australian take on it ?

Montecillo Gran Reserva 2001

90 points

A pleasant surprise. Dark strong and flavoursome without being overworked. The oak is less sweet than some, perhaps some French. I would like to try this in a less distracted mood.