Clos du Marquis 2008

88 points

Saint-Julien. 13%

Savoury and stylish but I had hoped for more excitment than this. Best left for 5-10 years.

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Chateau PĂ©desclaux 2009

91 points

Pauillac. 13%

Whoa – Pomerol in Pauillac. A fascinating glimpse into the 2009 Bordeaux vintage.

Uber ripe, but not cooked or jammy. Seductive low acid, almost creamy, fig/plum juice. Oodles of flavour.

I suspect that wines like this can age for a good while, but I’m not sure that I would like them any better for it. I fear that the freshness might go and the wine turn pruney. Anyway it’s delicious now, I can’t ever recall a Bordeaux being so approachable so young.

This all sounds wonderful, but it’s a style that I wouldn’t want to drink often.

The Bordelaise should find such wines easy to sell in the US – expect for the price tags. If they teach the Chinese that this is what Bordeaux tastes like it might come back to bite them in later vintages.

PĂ©desclaux is a little known 5th Growth. WineDoctor has a profile here.

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Chateau Oliver 2008

90+ points

Pessac-Leognan. 13%

Dense closed nose, mostly sawdusty oak. Reminds me of some of the most concentrated 2004 Margaux (Margaux being particularly good commune in 2004).

Sleek modern wine, it’s very fresh, raw even. It should be hard to drink but it’s wonderfully balanced. Lots of flavor and vitality. Over shone some older Pauillac classed growths. Impressive.

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