Chateau Brown 2009

90 points

Pessac-Leognan. 14.5%

Rich, attractive, though this is pushing ripeness to the limit for Pessac. Greater concentration than earlier vintages, but I think I miss the open-knit Chateau Browns of less opulent vintages.

I suspect this change is as much to do with the Chateau as the vintage. I hope they don’t continue further on this path. They have done well but know risk losing regional typicit√©.

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Chateau de Fesles 2010

84 points

Anjou. 13%

I don’t think I have tried Anjou Blanc before, though I have had many nearby Chenin Blancs.

This is a bit disappointing. Green acid dominates. Leave for 3 years at least.

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Chateau Haut-Bages Liberal 1986

88 points

Nice wine but if I’d cellared it for 25 years or so I’d be disappointed. Fairly robust structure still underpinned by acidity. Little in the way of delicious aged characters – just slowly fading.

Is this the vintage, 1986 had high Parker ratings but 1985 was always the classier vintage, less powerful but it has aged with grace. Perhaps not so for 1986? Or is it Haut-Bages Liberal?

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