F and D Clair Santenay 1er Cru Clos Des Mouches 2002

90 points

Burgundy, France. 13%

The last bottle of a thoroughly enjoyable case of Burgundy. Nothing forced, nothing over-blown. Gentle but it put on weight over the years and comfortably aged to 8 years old.

Not a show pony but a few years back in a small competitive tasting against 1 or 2 good Australian pinots it showed its class.

Good value.

Dominique Laurent Chambolle-Musigny vieilles vignes 2004

85 points

Burgundy, France. 13%

This reeks of oak, too much especially at 6 years of age. Each sniff and swirl brings to mind mahogany furniture.

Fair degree of gylercol weight, acid and alcohol offsett by sweet ripe fruit. Interesting but not the light fine complex wine I would expect for Musigny.

My previous reviews of this wine gave been so much more flattering, I even wrote that “the oak is completely in the background”. Either there is bottle variation, or it’s the fact that I’m getting over a cold, or that my palete is improving (or all three?).

Domaine Armand Rousseau Mazy Chamberlin 1996

91 points

Mazy-Chamberlin, Burgundy, France. 13%

A fine old Burgundy. I’m not really qualified to speak but I would doubt there would be any value in keeping this any longer and would be surprised if it lasted for more than 5 more years, but then again I’ve learnt that the aging trajectory of Burgundy is nothing like the short arc of New World Pinot Noir.

Warm moderately rich (drying out a bit?) mid palate with long firm acidity – the acid being a characteristic of the vintage. I don’t mind this acid finish, especially with food.

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Joseph Drohin Chambolle-Musigny amoureuses 2002

91+ points

Burgundy, France. 13%

This still young Burgundy could perhaps be overlooked on a busy dinner table or with the wrong food.  But give it a bit of attention and it is quite a revelation.  Serious depth and controlled richness, considerable length.  The weave of acidity that runs right through is just enough to give the wine vinosity (remind you that it is made of fruit).  In no way syrupy or overly lavish.

It is very enjoyable now, but I don’t really have the experience to know what a Premier Cru in a good balanced vintage like this will become given another 3-6 years of age.  I suspect not an awful lot better, but as I say, I don’t know.

Domaine François Lumpp ‘Petit Marole’ Givry 2005

89+ points

Givry, Burgundy, France. 13%

Givry is a minor Burgundy appelation in the Côte Chalonaise, largely producing red wines, and largely ignored by fine wine writers. But like other areas of Burgundy (e.g. next door Mercurey) improved viticulture and winemaking mean that some of these “bistro wine” areas are starting to produce wines of some class and are where the bargains of Burgundy can be found.

This Premier Cru is a strong flavoured wine with good structure, reflecting the excellent vintage. There is a lot of oak, perhaps too much, but then again it seems to have the acid and oak to handle it. Drink in 2008-10 when it may even warrant a higher score than I give it today.