Chatto Semillon 2006

89 points

Hunter Valley. 10%

Fantastic acidity. This is just starting to mellow and develop some of the complexity that comes with age. Enjoyable yet I regret opening now.

Advertisement

Chateau Bonnet 2012

87 points

Entre-Deux-Mers. 12%

Fresh attractive Sauvignon blend. Not very rich or textured, but fortunately not high in alcohol either. Drink now til 2016.

Chateau de La Preuille 2008

89 points

Muscadet, Loire. 12%

I’ve not heard of this producer before but apparently they have been around for 11 generations and there is a glowing endorsement from Robert Parker on the back no less.

Very much what I’d hope for in a Loire Muscadet. Savoury minerality. Not quite as striking as some mineral bombs, nor as racey as others. But good stuff. I continue to wonder why the world overlooks Muscadet.

Le Petit Clos Des Vents 2011

87 points

Cotes de Duras. 14%

This appellation is halfway between Bordeaux and Cahors.

It’s a low acid wine with hints of cumquat or orange. Lots of retained CO2. Certainly doesn’t taste like Semillon/Sauvignon, and its hit 14% in a cold vintage. They can also use Ugni Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Muscadelle and Mauzac – so who knows?

Interesting wine. Drink immediately.

Chateau de Fesles 2010

84 points

Anjou. 13%

I don’t think I have tried Anjou Blanc before, though I have had many nearby Chenin Blancs.

This is a bit disappointing. Green acid dominates. Leave for 3 years at least.

Chateau de Varennes Savennières 2008

88 points. 13.5%

Very dry. Some oxidation from oaking, but searing acid too. Flavoursome but I really don’t think Chenin Blanc benefits from this much oak.

Pierre Andre Puligny-Montrachet 2009

89 points

13%

Flavoursome. Bit too oaky for me but that is true to the Montrachet style. Good wine.

Domaine Christian Moreau Chablis vaillon 2011

90+ points

Chablis, Burgundy. 13%. Diam.

Good fine Chablis. Quite rich. Without the piercing acidity of some lessor Chablis.

Reminded me of top class cool climate Australian chardonnay – which says how far Australia has come recently.

Monnières Saint-Fiacre Muscadet Serve & Maine 2005

91 points

Serve & Maine, Loire. 12.5%

Muscadet is usually thought of as cheap supermarket wine, useful dry white to wash down Oysters. But here is another profound Loire Muscadet. And 8 years old too!

In perfect condition, I guess it’s been in a cold Loire cellar. Impossible to guess the age by the nose.

Perhaps the creaminess on the palate gives it away but this is still fresh. Quite intense, juicy. Exciting wine.

St Helga Riesling 2012

87 points

Eden Valley, Adelaide Hills, South Australia. 12.1%

Nice but disappointing compared to other 2012 South Australia rieslings. This seems a bit dilute.

Mount Pleasant Elizabeth 2005

85 points

Hunter Valley. 11.5%

A riper softer, lower acid, less concentrated style. Easy going.

Louis Jadot Pouilly-Fuissé 2006

80 points

Burgundy. 13%

Golden colour very developed.

Oatmeal creamy texture but dilute wine lacking acid, alcohol. Flavour of oak still.

mesh Eden Valley Riesling 2012

90 points

Eden Valley, Adelaide Hills. 12%

A creation of Jeffrey Grosset and Robert Hill Smith (of Yalumba). Presumably grapes from Yalumba vineyards made into wine by Grosset.

A very nice wine with svelte acidity. I suspect that 2012 is a natural acidity (ie not added) vintage and the wines are so much better for it. This is dry yet low alcohol. It’s not quite a charmer, it’s a little too savoury for that. Needs to be matched carefully to food.

Pikes Clare Riesling seems to have more fruit sweetness.

Shaw and Smith M3 chardonnay

91 points

Adelaide Hills, South Australia. 13.5%

Seems rather savoury at first but fruit sweetness is revealed when consumed with food. It’s oaky still. Only just entering its drinking window in my opinion. Quite an impressive wine. Delicious and intellectually stimulating.

Seppelt Jaluka Chardonnay 2009

87 points

Drumborg Vineyard, Henty, Victoria. 12.5%

I’m less impressed than usual. This vintage is a bit green. Needs time. Very cool climate.

Yalumba Chardonnay FDW7c 2009

91+ points

Adelaide Hills, South Australia. 13.5%

Sawdusty lemon nose.

Surprisingly friendly forward (say compared to Ashton Hills, Adelaide Hills Chardonnay) yet still clearly young. Stylish modern Australian Chardonnay. Has the savoury complexity of some of the best European whites with the core of fruit intensity of really expensive wines.

Better yet in a year or two.

Tahbilk Marsanne 2007

87+ points

Nagambie Lakes, Central Victoria, Australia. 12.5%

Less flavoursome or developed than the 2006. Less exciting. On a positive note it is also lower alcohol. I have high hopes that this will be another classic for Tahbilk for this distinctive wine.

Domaine Coteau de la Biche Vouvray sec 2004

88 points

Vouvray, Loire, France. 12.5%

After the musty cork breathes off (but not corked) this is a honied varietal Chenin Blanc. Very pleasant if a little unexciting.

Tahbilk Marsanne 2006

91 points

Ngambie Lakes, Central Victoria. 13.5%

Wow, a classic wine with intruiging minerally acidity, yet surely some is added?? Honeysuckle varietal flavour plus extra dimensions. All this at 6 years of age and a crazy cheap price.

Better yet – screwcap.

Hardy’s Eileen Hardy Chardonnay 2009

91 points

Tasmania, Australia. 13%

A picture perfect chardonnay, starting with an amazing green gold colour. Lovely flavour, deft oak, restrained alcohol, acid moderate. It’s a little disjointed at present but the component parts are beautiful and I suspect will knit together very soon. I certainly don’t see this wine lasting 5 years but who cares.

Mountadam Vineyards Estate High Eden Chardonnay 2010

90 points

Adelaide Hills, South Australia. 14%

An intense flavoursome fine Chardonnay. I’d give it higher score but the acid is softer than expected and the alcohol a little noticeable. Less restrained, lacks the austerity of Ashton Hills.

Chateau Tour de Bonnet 2011

78 points

Entre Deux Mers. 12%

Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon, Muscadelle blend.

A sweet fruity cafe blend clearly pitched against New World Savvies.

Viré-Cless, Les Héritiers du Comte Lafon 2009

80 points

Alcohol obvious. Unctuous burgundy.

Chateau Latour Martillac 2007

88 points

Pessac-Leognan. 12.5%

surprisingly advanced colour. Gorgeous if oaky nose. Palate is flavoursome but the fruit, although it is strong is struggling to stand up to the oak.

Chateau Lafaurie-Peyraguey 2007

92 points

Sauternes. 13.5%

Practically everything one would want in a Sauternes of this age.

Clos Floridene 2009 Blanc

84 points

Graves, Bordeaux. 13%

I found this quite a hard, aggressive with Sauvignon Blanc to the fore. Perhaps with time it will gain some charm and more Semillon character.

Boutari Moschofilero 2010

80 points

Mantinia, Pelopennese, Greece. 11.5%

In spite of its low alcohol, and high altitude viticulure this is quite an unctuous rich wine with low acid and tinned fruit flavours.

Domaine de la Louvetrie ‘le fief du breil’ Muscadet 2009

91 points

Muscadet Sevre et Maine, Loire. 12%

A light gold colour, certainly more advanced than Guy Boossard’s wines but in the same very high quality range. Ripe fruit within a mineral framework. Great complexity for so young a wine. Great enjoyment. Seriously good wine.

The Willows Vineyard Semillon 2006

91+ points

Barossa Valley, South Australia. 12.5%

A single vineyard Semillon from 70 year old vines. Screwcap.

An evocative slightly smokey (or am I dreaming) nose. Arresting and inviting.

Compared to the Peter Lehmann Margaret Semillon I suspect this has had a bit more skin contact. It’s slightly higher alcohol, a bit more luscious, and I suspect less suited to age – but on this last count I could be very wrong. These Barossa Semillons can age for decades, as shown by the Moorooroo white.

This is an extremely good wine. Complex, each sip a little different, not easy to figure out. An absolute bargain.

Peter Lehmann Margaret Semillon 2005

91 points

Barossa Valley, South Australia. 11.5%

Has that tight grape skin aroma like a Hunter Semillon, but the palate is richer than this suggests. A perfectly lovely wine all the better for its low alcohol.

More advanced than expected, which is a bonus. I still expect this to last many years for those who can resist drinking it earlier.